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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 9th September 2003, 06:11 PM
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Well...hope ya kept track of the rest of the stuff as you took it out...now its time to put it all back together! Hoses...wires, connections...etc. Make sure all your bolts are tight (especially on the manifold halves....(believe us..we know!)) Now.. the GT manifold has a different bend up at the top of it. My K&N wouldnt go like it used to. However, we just rotated it around (note it's position now) and bored a new hole with a hole saw in the heat shield. We bought a electrical box plate and bolted it over the old hole...and Ta-Dah! We're done!

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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 9th September 2003, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MNShaleCruiser
Well...hope ya kept track of the rest of the stuff as you took it out...now its time to put it all back together! Hoses...wires, connections...etc. Make sure all your bolts are tight (especially on the manifold halves....(believe us..we know!)) Now.. the GT manifold has a different bend up at the top of it. My K&N wouldnt go like it used to. However, we just rotated it around (note it's position now) and bored a new hole with a hole saw in the heat shield. We bought a electrical box plate and bolted it over the old hole...and Ta-Dah! We're done!

This guide looks perfect. Bookmarked! Gonna use it once mine comes in...

RN
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Silver 2001 Limited Edition 5-speed, early build: far too many mods to list
2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi - crank pulley, removed intake silencer, EBC, UTEC, rear swaybar and endlinks, 4-point harness
13.155 @ 102.02 mph - stock
http://www.schoolsubjects.com/sti/video/
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 10th September 2003, 02:33 AM
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We plan to be more complete with it when we get all the pics together & sort the notes out. This is just a sampling!

Thanks Paul for posting!!! I will also make a mini guide on how I modified my stock air box for the GT manifold. I believe I get pretty close to the air flow of the K&N FIPK but using the K&N dropin instead.

For those of you who have wifes & sleeping babies in the back seat, this IS a QUIET alternative

But then again, you can't hear his intake anymore cause his DUAL EXHAUST IS SO LOUD
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Cool Vanilla 04 GT 5 speed; S1, custom silencer mod, K&N drop-in, AMX1397 TTAB pipe, UCP, Ventshades, badges removed, coilovers, Mopar Stage 1 Sway bars, Freedom strut bar, PTeazer retro grill, bumperette, cowl induction hood, rollpan & other assorted painted body parts .
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Last edited by GR8FLPT : 11th September 2003 at 02:26 AM.
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 10th September 2003, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MNShaleCruiser
...there will be a little more work..



To compensate for this piece of Chrysler genious...you have to make 1 cut on the new bracket that comes with the GT manifold.....

Cut 1




After we first installed GR8FLPT's a few months ago...this bracket thats in the engine compartment becomes a pain to deal with...just get rid of the darn thing and use zip ties for the wires/plugs that were attatched to the bracket....

dont need this sucker!
If you remove & cut the lower left mounting hole of the stock cast bracket, the new bracket will fit.

We zip tied MNSHALES for ease.
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Cool Vanilla 04 GT 5 speed; S1, custom silencer mod, K&N drop-in, AMX1397 TTAB pipe, UCP, Ventshades, badges removed, coilovers, Mopar Stage 1 Sway bars, Freedom strut bar, PTeazer retro grill, bumperette, cowl induction hood, rollpan & other assorted painted body parts .
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Last edited by GR8FLPT : 10th September 2003 at 02:40 AM.
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 10th September 2003, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MNShaleCruiser
From there...its just all disassembly...various bolts, etc etc. If you have an early build PT(like me) here's something of note. Chrysler changed powersteering fluid bottles and the positioning of it midstream. If you have the one shown below...there will be a little more work..



To compensate for this piece of Chrysler genious...you have to make 1 cut on the new bracket that comes with the GT manifold.....


Cut 1

This part of the mod is only needed for early builds.
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Cool Vanilla 04 GT 5 speed; S1, custom silencer mod, K&N drop-in, AMX1397 TTAB pipe, UCP, Ventshades, badges removed, coilovers, Mopar Stage 1 Sway bars, Freedom strut bar, PTeazer retro grill, bumperette, cowl induction hood, rollpan & other assorted painted body parts .
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10th September 2003, 03:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MNShaleCruiser
Ok...here's another part that involves some involvement on your part...other than bolt this there and go. The connections of the EGR tube used between the standard manifold and the GT manifold are different. Here is a picture of what Bob supplies us with...



What you are going to have to do is cut the elbow section off of the old EGR tube. Test fit the GT manifold into place and look to see about how far down you are going to have to cut. Mark it, get your pipe cutter, and twist away!



Before you slip the new end connection into the tube...get something like JB Weld putty to cement it together and hold it in place. Here's a picture of it all in place with a big chunck of JB Weld...

DOUBLE/TRIPLE check the location before you cut. this is real important. We also did not just "weld" the fitting in. I used a pipe flaring fit & "crushed the tube a bit" so the fitting would have somthing to bite into when I screwed it in. I didn't want it to pop out under pressure.
If you are gonna add a turbo later, all vaccuum lines should be clamped.
BTW, that was a JB weld type of product that you can use to repair exhaust leaks & cracked exhuast manifolds with. (high temp stuff (non JB weld brand))

Like BOB said before, this is a enabler mod. Don't expect a rocket. what it does is eliminate the last bit of restriction in air flow going into the engine. You should think about the back side also... headers, hi-perf cat, 2.5" or better exhaust.
I am no expert or certified mechanic. We have only ran "seat of pants dyno" But I like what I did for my car.

You should think twice before performing this mod, it is a lot of work & ANYTHING can go wrong!!! We know
But if you take your time, & double/triple/quadruple check your work before you reconnect the battery... all should go well.
& if it doesn't, DON"T PANIC!!!. Shut the car off & CHECK ALL VACCUUM LINES, PLUGS & BOLTS to make sure they are installed correctly & tight.
Install time for this in Driveway without power tools is around 4-6 hrs. (does not include 3 trips to parts store)

hope my editing helps a bit more.
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Cool Vanilla 04 GT 5 speed; S1, custom silencer mod, K&N drop-in, AMX1397 TTAB pipe, UCP, Ventshades, badges removed, coilovers, Mopar Stage 1 Sway bars, Freedom strut bar, PTeazer retro grill, bumperette, cowl induction hood, rollpan & other assorted painted body parts .
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Last edited by GR8FLPT : 11th September 2003 at 02:30 AM.
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10th September 2003, 06:52 PM
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You guys are A W S U M E !!!

Bob
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10th September 2003, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bstockum
You guys are A W S U M E !!!

Bob

No Bob...YOU'RE AWE-SOME!!!!

As long as all you monster mechanics on here keep pushing that envelope and letting us in on your engine-uity , we will all continue to learn!
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11th September 2003, 02:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MNShaleCruiser



No Bob...YOU'RE AWE-SOME!!!!

As long as all you monster mechanics on here keep pushing that envelope and letting us in on your engine-uity , we will all continue to learn!
DITTO & that goes for MX-5 & a few others out there. If it wasn't for you, we would all be driving Plain Jane PT's... not that theres anything wrong with that either
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Cool Vanilla 04 GT 5 speed; S1, custom silencer mod, K&N drop-in, AMX1397 TTAB pipe, UCP, Ventshades, badges removed, coilovers, Mopar Stage 1 Sway bars, Freedom strut bar, PTeazer retro grill, bumperette, cowl induction hood, rollpan & other assorted painted body parts .
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11th September 2003, 11:19 AM
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MOPAR has stepped up to the plate, ... as far as fixing the strength and power woes, on the PT-T and GT cars. The only thing that would have been nice for the early buyers, that craved more power, ... would have been some sort of program to let early PT owners trade up ... without loosing their shirts.
I understand that so many of the mods that many had done, on their early PTs, were NOT reversable nor sometimes not transferable to the new cars. So it could open up a number of problems.
... Still there are a fair number of people that bought late, (2002) and had not done much at all to their cars, ... were not happy with the lack of power and faceing with the losses they were being quoted, .... traded off to a GM, Ford or import and vowed NEVER to get screwed by Chrysler again!!!
Those are the customers that really hurt Chrysler and generate bad press!

It is looking like a $6-7,000 min investment to do the upgrades to the engine and add on the turbo system to get a reliable 250 HP, (at the flywheel).
That is money you would not recover, if you sold the car, under the present market conditions. But man what a joy to drive these monsters.

.... Yea, ... that's fast for a PT!! ... I've heard that one, ... then I ran the Mustang GT, w/automatic and he never had a chance!! ... Sure, ... there are plenty of very fast Mustangs out there with mods .... but you just don't expect to be embarrased by a Frickin PT Cruiser!!

.... I'm happy with what I've been able to do for a number of PT owners, ... it has worked, with very few problems. Some of them have 30,000 miles on them since the turbo was installed.

My own PT is going back together now. It has been off the road for over a year now!!! Building our new home and shop .... just had to come first. Plus, ... I've just been tooooo busy! (excuse)

Thanks again! ... Bob

Last edited by bstockum : 11th September 2003 at 11:22 AM.
 


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