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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 31st July 2003, 08:30 PM
GR8FLPT's Avatar
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Default Alignment/ lowering questions

I just had the tires rotated, balanced & alignment done before my big trip tomorrow. LR is still out abit but I can still drive it. What they are telling me is that I need a special shim that goes behind the brake assembly between that & the axle.
They are saying part is about $20 & they want $72 to install & realign that wheel.
Heres the questions:
so if I buy the shim kit can I install it in in my driveway & just get it aligned?
next; down the road I want to install the KYB shocks & eibach springs to lower the car. So the question is do all the wheels need this shim now?
or do I have to try to align them 1st without it & see if its needed? I can get a better price than the tire store.
but am I going to be gouged every time I want the car aligned?
I have a lifetime alignment warranty with the car thats why I ask these questions.

I was hoping to install the shim myself, get some help installing springs & shocks & while I'm at it ... installing some new bushing on the sway bars & such ... then having it aligned under the "warranty"

What do you think or am I just "spinning my wheels"?
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Last edited by GR8FLPT : 31st July 2003 at 08:34 PM.


  #2 (permalink)  
Old 1st August 2003, 04:04 AM
MX-5's Avatar
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Default

You want a EZ shim kit from Specialty Products.



You should not install this yourself, as it needs to be cut to add the needed angle during the alignment.

Here's some info:

75200
DUAL ANGLE EZ SHIM (BLUE)

Adjusts Camber and Toe with only one shim. These patented, two-piece shims are available individually or in MasterPaks of 25. Instruction sheets are included in each shim package. Various combinations of the shims and shim accessories are included on #88700 Dual Angle Shim Board, our new Shim and Cam Kit Assortment Board #88250, and in #88715 EZ Shim(tm) Assortment Pack.
Estimated Installation Time - .5 hr/side

http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/C_P...STALL_DYN.cfm?

2. Remove and loosen spindle/hub mounting bolts.

NOTE: If necessary remove brake line retainer clips.

3. Pull away the spindle/hub assembly from the axle.

4.Clean the hub to axle mounting surfaces. This is the area where the EZ Shim will be placed.

5. After aligning and cutting out the EZ Shim, install it between the hub and axle surfaces. Use P/N 75915 special cutters to easily trim the EZ Shim from the inside out.
NOTE: The shim may require additional trimming to eliminate slight interference conditions with protrusions in the backing plate or miscellaneous lines.

6. Install the EZ Shim with the numbers facing as follows:
a. Left side = numbers face in. (Away from you)
b. Right side = numbers face out. (Towards you)

7. Re-install hub mounting bolts and torque to the manufacturers' recommended values starting at the thin side of the shim (See EZ Shim template).






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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 1st August 2003, 05:59 AM
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Thanks MX-5, I figured you or Bob would have the answer. Are these things Plastic?
I'm kinda bummed out about not being able to do the install myself. at $70/wheel for labor + parts, I may never get my lower springs installed.

Anybody out there had to go through this? I'm starting to feel like I was left on the side of the road bleeding over this matter.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 1st August 2003, 10:12 AM
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I am not understanding. From your list of mods I don't see a reference to any lowering. Are they telling you that they cannot bring a stock equipped car into factory spec? If not, you have other problems that need addressing. Could be as bad as bent frame (unibody) or as simple as an inept mechanic trying to do the alignment.

The shims described above are, I believe, meant for the rear wheels. You really need to slam it to need these.

For the fronts, if you are modified and have lowered it more than 2 inches or so, you may need a couple of cam bolts that will allow them to adjust camber on the front. They cost about $40.00 max. To my knowledge there is no caster adjustment on the PT. I would have it checked by another mechanic at this point. If you are mechanially inclined and have the tools, either of these are simple installs for a shadetree.
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Last edited by Cal Cruzer : 1st August 2003 at 10:16 AM.
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 1st August 2003, 06:05 PM
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Question

What the????

Yeah....your ride height is "factory". Try maybe a different place and see what they say. I bought lifetime alignment from Firestone...had it done once when i lowered mine, and then again after i changed wheels/tires. They mentioned the kit Cal Cruizer talks about...but i didnt need it i guess...they showed me the print out after the alignment, and it was close enough. If that one wheel of yours is out that bad at factory ride height, yeah, there might be other issues to take care of before you lower your ride. After you lower it, you shouldnt have to pay extra either...except if you need that kit...which is a one time cost to buy it.....

Have fun seeing The Dead!!! I heard they have been outstanding so far!!
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 1st August 2003, 09:07 PM
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Hello gr8fltp,
Has your car been in an accident? Have you smacked the curb? You have to be honest in order for the tech to properly diagnose an alignment problem. Which alignment angle is out, camber or toe? What is the preferred spec for your car and what is the tolerance allowed. What is the reading? Can you post the alignment sheet? Are you having any sort of excess tire wear on the LR as compared with the other tires? Tire wear is a very important factor. If you are not really seeing any excess or abnormal wear then I would not be too concerned, but, without any sort of spec it is hard to determine whether or not something is bent (way out of spec) or just needs to be adjusted.
The rear suspension on the PT is basically a trailing straight axle. There should be no "rear" camber or toe change with any ride height adjustment, unless this causes the axle to flex which is doubtful.
It really does not take much to tweak the front or rear suspension. It may have been this way since new and over time any sort of suspension will relax, not to mention bumps and pot holes will take their toll.
I would not align this car until you perform all the suspension modifications first. The front wheels are aligned off the rears so it would be wise to get the rear as close as possible. Also when getting an alignment you need to specify how you drive and where you drive, aggressive on mountain roads(lots of cornering) or Lil' old lady on the freeway,etc.
It would also be very wise for you take this car to a well known alignment shop! Believe me you get what you pay for. I have seen plenty of so called $24.99(and up) lifetime 4 wheel alignments from a lot of tire stores,Sears,Pep Boys etc., that are garbage.
The shims previouly mentioned do work but I do believe they make steel tapered ones as well, it has been along time since I had to align a front wheel drive trailing arm car and I am sure the technology has improved.
I am going to be lowering my PT GT with eibach springs and konis in the next week or so( when I can find time at work) so I will be going through all this too. I am going to set it up to get the current readings, prior to installing my suspension, so I have an Idea of what to expect. I am going to run a little neg camber front and rear. Spec on the front toe and a little toe-in on the rear.
I hope this might help a little and no one on this thread can diagnose or recommend anything without the numbers. LMK


MoPar to ya,ptgtcb
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 1st August 2003, 09:19 PM
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Default I am registered ?

Hello,
I wrote the above message and was logged in, but for some reason it shows me as an unregistered guest????

ptgtcb
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 2nd August 2003, 08:17 AM
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Default

I never had a problem with mine. On my new Pt and old Pt they were both lowered and did'nt need the shim to correct the alignment?
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 2nd August 2003, 09:59 AM
RubyRed's Avatar
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by GR8FLPT
Thanks MX-5, I figured you or Bob would have the answer. Are these things Plastic?
I'm kinda bummed ...Anybody out there had to go through this? I'm starting to feel like I was left on the side of the road bleeding over this matter.
Did you have an "incident" with the Cruiser that caused something to bend? A high-speed pothole hit while cornering, perhaps? My Cruiser needed a camber-correction kit for the right side after my driver-in-training daughter drifted my car around a corner. Yes, it was needed on a NON-LOWERED CRUISER. Mine was put back in spec after they added the funny bolt that permits more alignment adjustment.

I'm surprised only that they will charge you so much to re-align.

I was told by someone (NOT a fan of Chrysler products) that their suspension pieces are more prone to bending than other makes (funny, that's how I feel about BMW suspensions). Whether this is true or not, I can't say. I can only let you know that it happened to me, so you are not alone.
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 2nd August 2003, 05:17 PM
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I just put Goldline springs (the 2" drop) on my '02 LE Thursday night. I did not purchase the camber kit. I got it aligned on Friday. The toe was out (as expected) and the camber is a bit off. Spec is negative 0.00-0.04. My left wheel is at negative 0.04 (just in spec) and the right is at negative 0.08 (out of spec).

I'm debating getting the camber bolts. In the long run, I'll probably get them and get the camber reset to 0.03 on both.

BTW, the car looks GREAT!!!!

Kevin Taylor
'02 PT Cruiser LE Steel Blue
Austin, Texas
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