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Hello
I am a newbie to the board here but not to Cruisers.......we're on our second one. Anyway, looking to get rid of the rake the car has from the factory. Want to lower the rear ONLY to get the vehicle to sit level or fairly level. There are a TON of springs (lowering) to pick from but I am unsure of the amount to lower the rear. When I get time I'll have to come up with a number required to level the car out (how much to drop rear). Meanwhile, if anyone knows an estimate of how much the rear has to go towards the ground to get it level........info would be much appreciated. Hope to hear from a few on this topic. OR, if there is a thread elsewhere that covers the topic, a link to that would be great as well. Thanks for your time
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Thanks, BILL @ RC ALLOYS |
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Moss Motors (www.cruiserbits.com) sells Gold Line springs that lower 1.5 front and 2 rear for a level stance. If the blurb is accurate then you need to lower the rear only .5 for the level stance. Hopefully, someone with more knowledge than me will post too...and - WELCOME!!!
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2003 PATRIOT BLUE LIMITED EDITION Pray for our troops |
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When I installed my Eibachs, I drove around with stock front springs and Eibach rear springs for a couple weeks until I had the time to finish the job. With only rear Eibachs, the appearance is much more 'level' . . . taking into account that the car has rake in the body style itself. Only unusual appearance thing was that the front retained the high tire/fender gap, while the rear was greatly reduced However, I felt the inequality of spring rates (stock in front, Eibach in rear) yielded strange handling. When cornering (agressively) the rear suspension would tighten up, but the front would bounce, causing the rear to step out (oversteer). Can cause quite a surprise when you are used to the front-wheel drive understeer . . . then suddenly going to oversteer. Installed the front springs quickly after that.
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Hello
Thanks for the replies and info on the various drops everyone got from their chosen springs. I'll have to do some major research. What I am looking for as stated in the first post, is to lower the rear to get rid of some of the rake. In doing of this, would like to match the tire/fender gap on the front and rear. Not quite sure this is possible, but with enough questions to various spring manufactures I should be able to come up with something. Thanks again! Any further info/experience would be great!
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Thanks, BILL @ RC ALLOYS |
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Quote:
The manufacturer of my springs (Suspension Techniques) claimed it would drop my PT Cruiser an EVEN drop of 1.3'', that is NOT what I experienced. Folks who put on Ground Force springs were told by the manufacturer their drop would be 1.5'' front, 1.75'' rear. What they actually got was an even 2'' drop. My point is that you can talk to manufacturers 'til you're blue in the face and you will not get the info you are looking for. For that you need to talk to the folks who have put them on their cars, and get ACTUAL measurements so you'll have an idea of the actual drop you can expect. It really helps to talk with folks who did "before and after" measurements, so you're dealing with hard numbers. There are a lot of springs by different manufacturers represented on these forums, all you have to do is ask the members to come up the numbers until you find what you're looking for.
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Vince 2001 Inferno Red Cruiser Limited, 5-speed. 16x7" SSR Comp wheels, 215/55-16 Nitto NT 450 tires(3 seasons), 205/55-16 Green Diamond Icelanders (winter tires) on factory 2003 7-spoke wheels, K&N FIPK Air Intake, MOPAR Spoiler, Suspension Techniques Sway Bars, Freedom Design Strut Brace, Suspension Techniques Springs, KYB Shocks. |
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I ued the Weitec rear lowering springs, claimed a 1.4" drop. The highest point of the fender opening is 26.75" rear and 27" in front, not a drastic drop but just what I wanted. An added bonus is less scraping in the front and the ride is a little firmer. I purchased these from Pro Felge in Germany.
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03 Cranberry GT, Autostick, Stage 1, Keystone Good Hood, Airaid, AMXTTAB, 05 manifold, BTG Duals, Painted Surf City Vizor, Mirrors & Pillars, Oval Breezer Window, PTeazer rollpan, Chrome Smoothies, Stage 1 Mopar sway bars, Weitec rear springs, MRK knbs, Autometer boost gauge & full cargo liner. Race cars not dogs |
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, i used these with no problems for 6 months untill i got a full set of springs,, cant beat the price, and they are fairely easy to put on,
CLAMPS ![]()
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Hahnn Turbo, Nitrous Works/ Zex Lots of Neons <100+ peices 18 inch Milles, with YOKO 40s 18 inch Woffers ,15 inch Subs 142 spl with 100 watt EarthQuake 5700 watt outlaw / street Digital Fiber Optic Sound system 2, D2 EarthQuakes Class D Amps lowered, sways, braces PTEAZER Hood, Pan, Grill BMW z-3 style mirriors |
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I put H&R's on the back only at first and it did even it out, (didn't like it), but I found that using unmatched springs front and back really made the handling feel funny. I put the fronts on the next day.
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Hello
Thanks for all the input on the spring dilema. I am still doing my homework on the springs everyone mentioned. I agree about doing all four corners rather than just the rear. Just doing the rear I'd imagine would make for an exciting ride and handling. Either way, thank you all very much for the input/info on your springs and experiences with them. Have to see what I am can come up with. Thanks Again! BILL @ RC ALLOYS
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Thanks, BILL @ RC ALLOYS |
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