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If 1% gets the message then you have done a great job! But some people won`t get it! |
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I understand what you are saying and I se it all the time. My advice to most of my friends is useally take the low number and run with that. If the intake like you says promises 10-20hp increase then take the 10hp increase and run with that. Then after puting the parts in take it to get dyno tuned and see where you stand its better to be guessing low then to be guessing real high IMO you dont look as much of an idiot this way. Also I tell them the hp numbers that are promised are promised to the wheels so 10hp could be any where 5-8hp to the wheels. However like what happend to you my friends get lost in the idea their part just added a lot of power when i added a small amount (which added with more is great). Maybe I see it a lot because im young and most of my friends werent as lucky as me growing up in a faimly who races. But I do understand what your saying and your right it happens a lot.
-Cory |
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Mark is so right,
ever look in the mini trucking magizine or the trucking magizine, you can find many adds that say, stage 1-5, and give you a power level increase, LOL like # 5 is 85 hp, and its a k&N fliter ,cat backexhaust, a tornadeo air mixer, pulleys,, and some kind of chip,, , i wish you could bolt on 85 hp, that easily, of course theres no dyno charts to back up any claimes, and a dyno is only a small representaion, fo real world driving,, so even that has to be witha grain of salt, , a funny story was a younger kid i know, who, strongly belives all the written words on power hp each product adds, his list of stuff, makes me smile so much, , right from his site, 1. With all these lubricants alone (z-max, knockout, stp & duralube), I've boosted the horsepower close to an extra 5+ HP. 2. When I add in the tornado it'll boost the Hp to about another 10-20 depending on how clean the engine runs and the size of the motor (v6 in my case) So I'm guessing about 15HP Boost. 3. When I add the K&N air filter, its obv gonna be running betta than the one in there right now & It'll give it about another 4.3-8.6HP Boost 2-4%(215HP X 0.02 = 4.3HP+/ 215HP X 0.04 = 8.6HP+) 4. So what have we Learned? I've increased the HP up to 25+ without adding any performance parts such as cold air intake, exhuast or even a supercharger. Imagine what u already upgraded/supped up rydes can still add to ur rydes. that made me so smile, i wish engine preformance was this easy, joe, ps, i think zmax is being sued by tons of people, isnt it just mineral oil? olololol ![]()
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Hahnn Turbo, Nitrous Works/ Zex Lots of Neons <100+ peices 18 inch Milles, with YOKO 40s 18 inch Woffers ,15 inch Subs 142 spl with 100 watt EarthQuake 5700 watt outlaw / street Digital Fiber Optic Sound system 2, D2 EarthQuakes Class D Amps lowered, sways, braces PTEAZER Hood, Pan, Grill BMW z-3 style mirriors Last edited by PT-Turbo : 1st June 2003 at 12:00 AM. |
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That's why I'm offering the dyno day on June 14th. I have quite a crowd already signed up, but there are 10 times as many who aren't willing to let go of their egos and get some real numbers. They claim to have a 500hp 1.8L motor, but it runs 16's at the track. Hmmmm.... "let's get it dyno tested so you will have an accurate hp & torque chart". "Uh.. um... dude, my motor has sooo much power, the dyno won't be able to read it all". ( true, the dyno can't read all the hp gained by a wing and stickers/decals ) And I say..." the dyno can read up to 1200hp, and it's still accurate at only 150hp. You need to wipe up all the BS coming out of your mouth and put up or shut up!"
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2002 Dream Cruiser #435 with: over 115hp nitrous, MX-5 "burp-free" shift mod, 2003 shifter, 2001 radio, 2001 Mopar subwoofer, MX-5 designed true cold-air intake, MX-5 designed double platinum spark plugs, shory antenna, much more.... |
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The key to performance is to first get as much out of your current engine setup as you can, to get more of the engines's existing HP driving those wheels. Then if you're still not satisfied, it's time for cams, pistons, turbos, sc's, nitrous, etc.
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--JOEM\01 Base Cranberry Cruiser, painted flames by Mayabb's Hot Rods, Keystone Good Hood, PTeazer roll pan, Stull billet grille, Mooneyes '39 "Devil" taillights, Flipen Hood, Hurst shifter, JBA header, AirRaid intake system, PowerAid throttle body spacer, Bassani single exhaust, Wildfire strut bar, Progress lowering springs, Progress sway bars, chrome engine bits, lots of interior chrome and billet stuff. Moon discs, Futura Super Sport tires. 03 Dodge Ram HEMI (345 HP, no waiting) |
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I agree 100%. You can take it a step further and say you don't know what you have until you get that little slip of paper at the return road of the track. You have to get the power to the ground and uderstand how to drive some as well. ![]() |
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RN
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Silver 2001 Limited Edition 5-speed, early build: far too many mods to list 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi - crank pulley, removed intake silencer, EBC, UTEC, rear swaybar and endlinks, 4-point harness 13.155 @ 102.02 mph - stock http://www.schoolsubjects.com/sti/video/ |
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The kiddies around here seem to believe that the widget says "gain up to 20hp", they simply get 20hp. What the manufacturer means is "you may get zero to 20hp". The answer is closer to zero. Then they add all the "up to xxx hp" together. Then they add more hp for the Japanese decals and stickers! Then they add some hp for a huge, heavy, wing. Then they add some more hp for lowering springs and expensive wheels. Then they drive to the IHRA track and PARK. They don't even run it! Then they open their mouth and all the BS starts flowing. Test & tune is $5 to watch or $15 to run, so I don't think it's because they can't afford to race. ![]()
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2002 Dream Cruiser #435 with: over 115hp nitrous, MX-5 "burp-free" shift mod, 2003 shifter, 2001 radio, 2001 Mopar subwoofer, MX-5 designed true cold-air intake, MX-5 designed double platinum spark plugs, shory antenna, much more.... |
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