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I would suggest a factory service manual.
It comes out through the bottom. Raise the PT on your lift and lower the entire drivetrain out the bottom.
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2002 Dream Cruiser #435 with: over 115hp nitrous, MX-5 "burp-free" shift mod, 2003 shifter, 2001 radio, 2001 Mopar subwoofer, MX-5 designed true cold-air intake, MX-5 designed double platinum spark plugs, shory antenna, much more.... |
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right out the bottom,
most front wheel drives you can pop out the botom, the pt is super tight on the top, but i guess it could be done, plan on it taking a while, if you never have done it before, and getting the manual, is a gret idea , if for just the order that is easiest, to proceed, you have to be care full the oli pan is alunim, and the trans bolts up to the pan,, and is very erasily striped out, the only other thing i have seen that was notable, was the cat is a pain to remove, as is the heat shields ( wich never seem to fit back,0 and it never fails you break an exhaust bolt,) and usaaly the cheap tourq strut, on the engine is usally torn, in about 40,000 miles, ,, i replaced mine and filled the whole thing with silicone, ,, so it is just a bit tighter and you get a tiny tiny bit less wheel hop, ,,, Good LUck, Jospeh |
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Drop it through the bottom!
Auto or Manual. Mine is an Auto. Remove both engine and tranny. put a 3 1/2 ton hyd. jack on both sides of the front frame. Had everything diconnected except the mounts. Lowered the car so the engine and tranny were sitting on a dolly. Took bolts out of mounts and raised car back up. Tranny has 2 bolts that go straight down. Top frnt of engine has the same. Pop the plastic cap off the inner fender a you will see the 1 front mount bolt. It is a large Torx. Make sure you have the correct size with you before you start. I still have my tools in storage or I would tell you what that size is. As you raise the car watch for clearance from all angles and go slow. When the top of the trans. clears the frame start to turn it towards the front of the car. Yes, it is easier if the tranny comes out first. Unless of course you have a lft and are able to get the car high enough to clear. If not, roll the assembly through the (previously removed) nose of the car. Leave the ex. manifold on it will clear. It is a little tight when lowering the engine (or raising the car) near the power steering cooler. If you tilt the engine forward a bit it will clear. I tried to squeak it out with the alt, ps pump and a/c comp, on but it was too tight. Remove the alt (make note of the brackets and bolt locations). The FSM was not extremely helpful here. But I would strongly suggest having 1 on hand. Even if only for your torque specs. A/C comp looks like it will be fine on but ends up hitting the inside of the right fender apron. Power steering pump I removed from bracket but let it stay (just moved it out of the way. I disconnected the high pressure line at the rack. You must use a 18mm flare (crow foot/line) wrench. this is 1 bolt you don't want to strip. It can be a pain to access especially upon install. I suggest if an Auto, to take the converter to flywheel bolts out before removing the engine. It is easy to do while the car is up instead of the engine sitting on the dolly. Get you A/C recovered before you begin, try not to release it into the atmosphere. Trying to be enviromentally friendly here! Top part of the intake I removed; bottom half stayed on. Starter stayed on. I tryed to leave as much on as possible. All bolts I put either back in the hole they came out of or in labeled ziplock bags. i will let you know if i think of anything else. if you have a Q please ask and I will check daily to see if I can help Good luck Ant
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Fully built HRC Turboed 2.4: Wiseco pistons, T2 rods, Port & Polished head (Bob Special) with oversize Stainless Steel valves, #14 Crane Cams, AF/X UDP, 3" custom downpipe, 3" hi flow exhaust No balance shafts, Ported GT intake manifold, Bored Throttle Body, 30lb injectors, Water Injected
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every one has there own littel diffrent ways of doing things, and , ants , was nice enough to take the time and list it out fairly well,
,, and the only major way I have seen it done was to drop the entier steering rack, and mount that bolts up around there i guess it gives more, room, to come straight down, and piviot, ,, ehh each there own,, you can do it many ways,, the only reall diffrence is time and effort, , good luck, and watch those knuckles
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Hahnn Turbo, Nitrous Works/ Zex Lots of Neons <100+ peices 18 inch Milles, with YOKO 40s 18 inch Woffers ,15 inch Subs 142 spl with 100 watt EarthQuake 5700 watt outlaw / street Digital Fiber Optic Sound system 2, D2 EarthQuakes Class D Amps lowered, sways, braces PTEAZER Hood, Pan, Grill BMW z-3 style mirriors Last edited by PT-Turbo : 31st January 2003 at 08:13 PM. |
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