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Look closely, ... to the far right of the short pieces, .... see the bolt hole has been moved around on the top?! They won't bolt up to each other. They made a change in the water neck and made a little more room for it, by moving the bolt hole ... plus I wouldn't want to support the alum upper manifold, ... with the plastic lower!! The bosses are not there on the plastic lower for the support brackets.
You can get all the spark-plugs without removing the manifold too! Thanks for the stimulating conversation! Bob Last edited by bstockum : 2nd April 2003 at 08:59 PM. |
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Not dumb at all!
What do you mean, "the connector to the throttle body?" The bolt pattern is the same. All the sensors go right on. There is a gasket for the alum manifold at every connection, rather than "O" rings on the plastic one. The TB bolts right up, ... no mods. The cables swing around and only need to be zip-tied together and routed to prevent kinking the cables. ... just common sense. The vac line that used to go to the top of the TB, ... still does. The alum mount that used to support the EGR vac module and rear (plastic intake mount), can stay where it is, ... but it will interfeer with the new suppot brackets, (made of steel), so you need to saw, (hack saw) a couple of old mounting ears off for clearance. Then file and smooth the saw cuts if you like. In doing this. You woul remove the alum EGR bracket to do this, .. of course!! Now modifying the EGR tube, that comes up to the old plastic intake, ... is the one thing I might need to price out and get from the dealer, as I get the manifolds, ... so it can be modified before you get it. That is the one part of the mod, ... some people may have trouble with. This is a developing kind of idea, so until I get a few out there and get some feed back from you guys, .... It is difficult for me to know what the "average" PT owner is able to do on his own. |
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Thanks Bob!! This thread is quite the interesting one, and if that manifold did produce any more "power" to a stock PT, may be interested..... |
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Yes, ... the TB comes off the intake at a slightly different angle than stock, ... so some rubber connector magic or metal pipe fitting would be needed. There are so many cold air deals out there, ... you should be able to work something out pretty easy.
Bob |
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Ready for another dumb question? This is a really interesting thread, but aside from looking cool, how are the intake dynamics going to be any different from stock if the runners are the same size as the plastic OE at the upper to lower intake connection? Actually, in the picture of the two side by side, (post #79 back on page 8), it almost looks like the turbo runners are smaller than the plastic.
The faces in my wallet are crying to find out!
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Still Chruzin after all these years ! & Thread Subscription is so cool ! - it's the email I look forward to getting Last edited by CHRUZIN : 3rd April 2003 at 11:19 AM. |
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The restriction up top, right after the TB is the biggest hold back.
There is a divider in the airway that splits all the air coming in, into two very small columbs, then expands into a chamber, then splits in to the four runners. This expansion/contraction/expansion effect is tuned for torque down low, ... but hurts horse power in the mid and top end. Now I'm not going to get into a debate over this, ... so just wait til we do Phatdads and see how it goes!! Bob ![]() |
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The only real way to know is to judge the performance on an engine as simmilar as possible to your own. Brad
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My last Dyno run -- 255 WHP and 330 ft/lb TQ * Hahn Turbo * Crower Rods * JE Pistons * Stainless Valves * Ceramic Coatings * Fidanza flywheel * Crane Cams * Crane Sprockets * Blitz BOV * Greddy Profec A * Borla Exhaust * GT Intake * 53mm TB * 320cc Injectors * Cartech FMU * Crane Hi6-Di2/TRC * ClutchMasters Stage IV * Screamin' Stockum Valvejob & Machine work * Starbucks Powered! * |
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Well I have not dyno'd my car but have done the seat of the pants version. I put a fellow cruiser in my car with the exact make & type (except for body color) as mine. So far he truly believes that the current mods DO make a difference.
Soooo what does that mean, not much till a real dyno can be done. I just think the stock motor will do just fine with stock setup & as much aftermarket stuff we can put on for the time being. In the $$$ game, the intake is less $$$ than the cams & less work. if I can get just a bit more I'd be happy till next year when I can afford to do the cam work. wife is already B**ching about what I spent so far. (but Honey.... it only cost $__$. ![]() I think what the cam setup will do is "tie" it all together. ![]()
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Cool Vanilla 04 GT 5 speed; S1, custom silencer mod, K&N drop-in, AMX1397 TTAB pipe, UCP, Ventshades, badges removed, coilovers, Mopar Stage 1 Sway bars, Freedom strut bar, PTeazer retro grill, bumperette, cowl induction hood, rollpan & other assorted painted body parts . Member of www.mnptcruiserclub.org MAC (Minnesota Autosports Club) Novice AutoX Day
Last edited by GR8FLPT : 4th April 2003 at 01:47 PM. |
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