Chrysler on Rough Idle

[WUWU20]

Opps....I wasn't signed in....thats my post above, sorry, be cool, James

[TamzDream]

My DC has a rough idle also. I didn't notice it at first after getting my car, noticed it later. But it seems to be running fine and just hadn't taken it in to see if they could do anything about it. Sounds like there may not be a fix. Please keep us posted if you find out anything.

[HiiPERCRZ]

I thought they had a fix for this?

[TamzDream]

Originally posted by HiiPERCRZ
I thought they had a fix for this?

I hope so. I guess I will have to try checking into it with my dealer also.

[BraytonAK]

Has anyone thought that this could possibly be due to something as simple as an engine mount that isn't functioning properly?

[TamzDream]

Originally posted by BraytonAK
Has anyone thought that this could possibly be due to something as simple as an engine mount that isn't functioning properly?

I did have that thought when I was reading through the posts. How would one check that though?

[achr]

Here in Canada my PT has always run like silk. Still so today after two years and 25,000 miles. Have any of you with rough idle tried other brands of gasoline? In the '80s, trying to run a Chrysler product on Shell gas was just begging for problems. Different additive packages used by fuel suppliers can sometimes affect seals and there is a wide disparity in sulphur content amongst brands, even from one refinery to another. The sulphur tends to poison catalytic converters and may drive the computer buggy trying to compensate for erratic sensor readings. In southwestern Ontario, Esso/Exxon has very high sulphur content in fuels coming from the old Sarnia refinery. Ever get behind a car that smells like rotten eggs? Chances are its running Esso. There was a recent release from the government of Canada showing sulfer content by brands. The industry had fought being forced to release this information tooth and nail (especially the losers) because it involves huge expense in refinery upgrades. In a nutshell, Esso was worst at nearly 1,000 ppm of sulphur. Sunoco was best at around 100 ppm followed by PetroCan at nearly 200 if memory serves correctly. Ironically, a small independent in Alberta had 0 ppm sulfur in their gasoline. I pretty much use Sunoco and PetroCan exclusively.

[TamzDream]

Originally posted by achr
Here in Canada my PT has always run like silk. Still so today after two years and 25,000 miles. Have any of you with rough idle tried other brands of gasoline? In the '80s, trying to run a Chrysler product on Shell gas was just begging for problems. Different additive packages used by fuel suppliers can sometimes affect seals and there is a wide disparity in sulphur content amongst brands, even from one refinery to another. The sulphur tends to poison catalytic converters and may drive the computer buggy trying to compensate for erratic sensor readings. In southwestern Ontario, Esso/Exxon has very high sulphur content in fuels coming from the old Sarnia refinery. Ever get behind a car that smells like rotten eggs? Chances are its running Esso. There was a recent release from the government of Canada showing sulfer content by brands. The industry had fought being forced to release this information tooth and nail (especially the losers) because it involves huge expense in refinery upgrades. In a nutshell, Esso was worst at nearly 1,000 ppm of sulphur. Sunoco was best at around 100 ppm followed by PetroCan at nearly 200 if memory serves correctly. Ironically, a small independent in Alberta had 0 ppm sulfur in their gasoline. I pretty much use Sunoco and PetroCan exclusively.

Haven't tried that yet. Probably is a good place to start. I pretty much go where ever to get my gas, so I guess I will first start paying attention to see if there is a difference and also get it withe the same company most of the time.

[MX-5]

Originally posted by TamzDream


I did have that thought when I was reading through the posts. How would one check that though?

From the 2002 service manual:

"ADJUSTMENTS
ENGINE TORQUE STRUT ADJUSTMENT
The upper and lower torque struts need to be
adjusted together to assure proper engine positioning
and engine mount loading. Whenever a torque strut
bolt(s) is loosened, this procedure must be performed.
(1) Remove accessory drive belt splash shield.
(2) Remove pencil strut.
(3) Loosen the upper and lower torque strut
attaching bolt at the suspension crossmember and
shock tower bracket.
(4) The engine position may now be adjusted by
positioning a suitable floor jack on the forward edge
of the transmission bell housing.
NOTE: The floor jack must be positioned as shown
in to prevent minimal upward lifting of the
engine.
(5) With the engine supported, remove the upper
and lower torque strut attachment bolt(s) at shock
tower bracket and suspension crossmember.
Verify that the torque struts are free to move within
the shock tower bracket and crossmember. Reinstall
the torque strut bolt(s), but do not tighten.
(6) Carefully apply upward force, allowing the
upper engine to rotate rearward until the distance
between the center of the rearmost attaching bolt on
the engine mount bracket (point “A”) and the center
of the hole on the shock tower bracket (point “B”) is
119 mm (4.70 in.).
CAUTION: The engine must be held in position with
jack until both the upper and lower torque strut
bolts are tightened.
(7) With the engine held at the proper position,
tighten both the upper and lower torque strut bolts
to 115 N·m (85 ft. lbs.).
(8) Remove the floor jack.
(9) Install pencil strut and tighten nuts to 58 N·m
(43 ft. lbs.).
(10) Install accessory drive belt splash shield."

[BraytonAK]

achr: I've heard of those problems with fuel in Canada recently. I normally go to Texaco to get gas, just because the particular station that I go to is inexpensive. However, I do use Chevron and Williams (used to be Mapco) once in a while. I *could* try Tesoro, but don't want to pay a premium for the same stuff. Those are my only options.

MX-5: Has anyone tried this re-adjustment to see if it solves the issue?