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Does anyone know what kind of liquid or gel could be used to seal an air leak? It's leaking where air comes from an air tank in the car and splits into 2 hoses. It must allow for some play in the hose, as putting the seats back in the car will surely move the hoses some, and it needs to stay sealed up tight, especially after the seats go in.
RN
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Silver 2001 Limited Edition 5-speed, early build: far too many mods to list 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi - crank pulley, removed intake silencer, EBC, UTEC, rear swaybar and endlinks, 4-point harness 13.155 @ 102.02 mph - stock http://www.schoolsubjects.com/sti/video/ |
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The threads are not leaking and the hose itself isn't leaking. If the hose pulls to any direction at all, it seems to get enough of a gap between it and the plastic-brass-rubber fitting to leak air out. As air starts to leak, it all comes there and increases the pressure, resulting in the entire fitting blowing out like a rocket and the hose coming out...causing me to have to start all over again.
RN
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Silver 2001 Limited Edition 5-speed, early build: far too many mods to list 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi - crank pulley, removed intake silencer, EBC, UTEC, rear swaybar and endlinks, 4-point harness 13.155 @ 102.02 mph - stock http://www.schoolsubjects.com/sti/video/ |
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you started with a kit like this, or something similar, right?
That means you used the supplied airline and connections, right? If anything broke between now and then, you bought exactly the same type of airline and connections, right? instead of bending the lines, you may have to make a 45 or 90 degree hard jointed connection instead....
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Bruce R. "The Guru" & Marta J. Hylman. 2001 Black Touring Edition. |
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The hoses aren't exactly bent...they curve but not bend at sharp angles. A loose connection is the source but it locks tight into place and stays that way for a little while. If a seat touches the hose or if anything bumps it around, it starts leaking. I'm looking to seal around the edges to prevent the leak. Some of these parts are new, all part of kits. I suspected a broken fitting so checked it when the hose blew out once. The rubber, brass and plastic pieces were wholly intact. I'm not running higher than usual pressure, either. It's quite baffling. So my solution is to seal any gap up, secure the seal in place, and test it like crazy. Other than no way to fix the leak today, today was fantastic. I replaced the wiring and installed the compressor kill switch and that all went slowly but flawlessly.
RN
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Silver 2001 Limited Edition 5-speed, early build: far too many mods to list 2004 Subaru Impreza WRX STi - crank pulley, removed intake silencer, EBC, UTEC, rear swaybar and endlinks, 4-point harness 13.155 @ 102.02 mph - stock http://www.schoolsubjects.com/sti/video/ |
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you CANNOT reuse air fittings! the small copper ferrels around the line bend to lightly cut into the hose for an airtight fit...
once you break a sealed connection, it's best to square cut the line and use another ferrel... always leave more than enough line for any flexing that may ocour and also leave enough to make a new connection if necessary... having a loop in the line will give you this leeway, just don't make the loop too tight... if you look on the back of your refridgerator you will see the copper tubing in a coiled loop, that is why it's there.... they are called compression fittings, and the reason they are called that is that they compress the airline, whether it's plastic or copper tubing... and it sounds like you still need to make a hard connection at these bends... go to a heavy truck service center (Freightliner, Peterbilt, Mack, Kenworth) or maybe a truckstop garage for the ferrels and connections you need... these trucks use the parts you need for their air/fuel connections (air brakes, transmission, injectors, air dryers)...
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Bruce R. "The Guru" & Marta J. Hylman. 2001 Black Touring Edition. Last edited by PT "Guru" : 31st May 2003 at 09:28 PM. |
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