What about this Subwoofer system?

[at58]

I just bought a JL audio stealthbox that fits in the rear drivers side compartment. It's expensive but at least I get to keep all my hauling space. Will let you know how it works when it comes in.

[Marc]

I am happy to say that I am purchasing the MOPAR Sub Woofer kit from a GREAT friend of mine...Brand Spanking new.
Thank you so much Great Friend. Can't wait to hook it up.

One like this one:

This way, no Box is going to take any of my precious room back there

[MX-5]

Originally posted by achr
I agree with PT Sean and MX-5.

Most people don't understand that music power is a logarithmic equation, ie 350 Watts is not 10 times louder than 35 Watts, not even close. Those cheap computer speakers are lucky to put out 5 Watts RMS (true power) with a reasonable distortion level.

Glad you agree.
Sean and I are both degreed in electronics.

Here's some Cliff's notes for audio.

If you double the power, you increase the volume by 3db.
Most cannot hear a 3db change in volume.

So, from 100 to 200 watts of music power, you cannot hear a difference.

To 'sound' twice as loud, you need 10 TIMES the power. This is a 10db increase in SPL sound pressure level.
So, from 100 watts to 1000 watts is a measureable change.

You can fill a room with music with 5 watts.
To double the volume, you need 50 watts. Double again is 500 watts and then 5000 watts.

Here's where the speakers come into play.
They are rated at a certain SPL with 1 watt of input.

Lets do the math on 2 imaginary speakers.
Let's agree that 120db is loud. (for the sake of this example)

Speaker #1 has a rating of 80db at 1 watt at 1 meter.
To get to 90db, you need 10 watts.
To get to 100db, you need 100 watts.
To get to 110db, you need 1000 watts.
To get to 120db, you need 10,000 watts!

Speaker #2 has a rating of 100db at 1 watt at 1 meter.
To get to 110db, you need 10 watts.
To get to 120db, you need 100 watts.

Look for a speaker with a higher efficiency rating. It can play much louder with much less input power.

This is why I have 2,520 watts of continous rms power in my home system. My 4 Magnepan planer-magnetic speakers are rated at 84db. It takes a tremendous amount of power to get them moving. ( that's almost 4 horsepower!!! )
My shop has a Crown 150 watt amp and can play louder because I use super-high effeicient BIC tower speakers. They are rated near 100db at 1 watt.


Here's where you can work magic with Ohm's law.

Bass is 90% of the music power. 500 watts of bass uses only 45 watts for the midrange and 5 watts for the tweeters.
You can decrease the bass by 3db ( unable to hear the difference ) and you cut the power needs in half!

You can play louder with less distortion by simply cutting back slightly on the bass.

[MX-5]

Marc,

Both Sean and I have installed the OEM subs.

It takes about an hour if you have some level of experience and the correct tools for removing the seat belt bolts.

I strongly suggest that you hook it up and listen for a while before mounting the sub panel back in place.

Ed, from www.ptdiy and I both have our level adjustment knob set to the lowest position. We are pleased with the added octave the sub provides.

The knob is mounted inside the panel and is not adjustable once the sub is mounted.


Make sure you get the sub for your 2001 PT. The 2002 has a different wiring connector.

[achr]

Originally posted by Marc
I am happy to say that I am purchasing the MOPAR Sub Woofer kit from a GREAT friend of mine...Brand Spanking new.

I think you'll be reasonably impressed. At least we still have the 3 band equalizer on our head units. Chrysler keeps cheapening these things up. My '91 Caravan Infinity System had a 5 band EQ system. Now the 2003 PT's are down to bass and treble.

You'll find that for most music, the bass can now be reduced to mid-point which really unloads the drivers in the front doors. I have one song on my CARUZIN CD (my son is a "Techno/Rave" Disc Jockey, Recording Engineer, and Drummer) where I have to put the bass setting all the way to the bottom. I'll bring it to Niagara to test out your system if you like.

The biggest hassle in fitting the system is finding the special socket to remove the rear seatbelt. If memory serves, I believe I got one at Home Depot. I routed the fuse for the sub-woofer such that I can quickly remove it to demonstrate the effect of the sub-woofer.

Enjoy!

[Marc]

Thanks for the advice MX-5.
I will do that..listen to it before installing it. As for my level of Experience doing these things, it's ZILCH. I won't know until I try it right? I have to attempt it. Hope I don't screw it up
I took the rear hatch cover once or twice before tho to remove the washer nozzle and the wiper motor!!
By correct tools for removing the S/B bolt, what would those be?

The Mopar SubWoofer is for the 2001 Cruiser. Will it be harder to install if I have a 10 CD diskplayer hooked up to my Stock head?

Thanks guys

Originally posted by MX-5
Marc,

Both Sean and I have installed the OEM subs.

It takes about an hour if you have some level of experience and the correct tools for removing the seat belt bolts.

I strongly suggest that you hook it up and listen for a while before mounting the sub panel back in place.

Ed, from www.ptdiy and I both have our level adjustment knob set to the lowest position. We are pleased with the added octave the sub provides.

The knob is mounted inside the panel and is not adjustable once the sub is mounted.


Make sure you get the sub for your 2001 PT. The 2002 has a different wiring connector.

[MX-5]

Follow the DIY guide. It is the same destructions you get with the sub.

http://www.ptdoityourself.net/ptsub.html

[Marc]

MiX-5,
As per instructions (destructions)


Remove rear speaker cover and loosen rubber gasket


Loosen back door rubber gasket


By the rubber Gaskets, do you mean the Weather Stripping? Is this removable and reusable or will I have to GLUE it back on?

Thanks MX-5

[PT_Sean]

MX- THOSE equations brought a tear to my eye... I used to love doing that stuff!!

The OEM sub, although expensive, IS worthy of the coin. Nice fit, no room taken, easy install.

I was disappointed that the adjusting screw (level) is NOT adjustable once mounted. To truly tune that sub, it SHOULD be mounted first. SO, you may need to mount, listen, unmount, adjust, remount, ... ARGH.

One thing about OHMs law, (V = I * R) is that the "resistance" becomes IMPEDANCE and is a function of FREQUENCY when there is no longer DC to contend with . For a speaker, Z = wL (freq. in radians * inductance, plus the R value of the wire.

Oh my aching head...

[PT_Sean]

Originally posted by Marc


By the rubber Gaskets, do you mean the Weather Stripping? Is this removable and reusable or will I have to GLUE it back on?

Thanks MX-5

They are friction held- no need to re-glue. You WILL need a Torx 60 socket to remove the rear seatbelt though!!