I'm Horny

Well let's say I have a horn question. I am in the process of installing my ahooga. What I would like to do is install a switch so that I can choose between the stock horn and the ahooga. I am electrically challenged. Is installing a second transfer switch possible? If so, what kind of switch do I need and where in the circuit do I install it? C'mon you DC wizards, help a brother in need

[PT_Sean]

http://www.ptdoityourself.net/pthorn.html

My advice- install a SEPARATE switch

Let me restate my goal. Here's the deal with the horn. Rather than install a momentary switch, which I will have to fumble to find, I want to install a selector switch so that I can choose between stock or ahooga. Both horns would be operated by the horn button on the steering wheel. Kapish!?! Can this be done?

[Rick in PA]

It can be done, but a quick glance at the wiring diagram reveals some interesting potential problems. The fuse for the horn circuit has a 15 Amp rating. The wire used for the horns is 20 gauge (that's right 20 gauge!). This will probably conflict with the requirements of the ahooga horn, I am fairly certain that the ahooga horn will specify a heavier wire gauge. On the other hand... some people have reported sucess with using the factory wiring to power the ahooga horn. So, it may require creative wiring with a seperate horn relay or it may be a simple selector switch that directs the juice to the appropriate horn. In either case it will require someone to evaluate the circuits, loads, etc. to make sure the modifications don't cause a problem.

[PTCruisingPA]

Yo Tony, if it helps you I have the Ahooga horn as the main and am using the factory wiring with no problem. Therefore, you could be the one to split the line and redirect it to two different end sources. The switch location and style is your choice. Since this is a piece that is not used with any frequency, it's your call. If it were my Cruiser, I would have no problem doing it. Have fun running the wiring!

Rick and Parks,
Thanks for the help. It always seemed to make sense that I could use a switch to go from horn to horn. The question still remains. How the heck do I do this hookup?

[PTCruisingPA]

The horn button (steering wheel) is considered the starting point. From the wiring, it needs to be split and directed to a simple switch (located where you desire). There are splitter switches in any automotive store, just make sure it can handle the power (not too tough). Since the source is connected to the switch, simply attach the horn wiring to one side of the switch. Your factory horn is still intact with the addition of a switch in the line. That simple. The Ahooga horn requires more than wiring. You can get an horn installation kit when you get the horn and it will have the parts needed. Once you wire and mount the horn, you'll have to attach the wires to the other side of the switch. Go to the PTdoityourself.net page to get install and parts ideas. It's really not that complicated.

If I was local I could do this a whole lot easier!

[PT_Sean]

Tony (12 Aug, 2001 06:43 p.m.):
Let me restate my goal. Here's the deal with the horn. Rather than install a momentary switch, which I will have to fumble to find, I want to install a selector switch so that I can choose between stock or ahooga. Both horns would be operated by the horn button on the steering wheel. Kapish!?! Can this be done?

Wouldn't the selector switch then be the one that you would have to fumble to find??

I still say use a second button- several of us have the second switch- some on the center bezel, some on the fuse panel, some under the steering column. That way you know- steering wheel is factory horn, OTHER button is ahooga.

It would be rather funny to have left the selector button in the ahooga position, then have the alarm go off in the middle of the nite!! OR, get cut off in traffic, and want to lean on the horn to tell the other guy what you think, only to have him hear a polite AHOOGA....

Wiring the selector DIRECTLY- yes, it CAN be done. I would recommend a separate relay hence separate feeds- if you are to use the wires for the factory horns, from the horn location, not the steering column location, you are now running that 10A line from the wheel well location, through the firewall to the switch!! Not always good.

AS WELL- are those factory horns negative switched (horns are always hot, a button grounds the other side) or positive switched (horns are always grounded, a button sends a positive 12V to it)....

Is it clear why I am suggesting what I am???

P.S.- does anyone know what other electrics are on the factory horn fuse?? Would hate to have a fuse blow cause the horn drew too much and have the HEADLIGHTS go out!!!!!!
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[PTBrewzer]

Hello Tony,

Its really a simple set-up from an electrical schematic sense.

Just get a SPDT (Single Pole/Double Throw) switch that can be mounted in your dash. Pick one that suits your mounting requirements and electrical hook-up connection preferences, as well as an amperage rating of the highest required device, probably the new horn, 20AMP@12V should get it done.

You can get a switch many places, Radio Shack, (another possibility from Radio Shack) JCWhitney, or PEP Boys, or where ever you prefer.

It will have three terminals. Find the wire that currently feeds the existing horn, trace it back, determine if it is positive or negative, (I'd be very surprised if it were negative) Assuming it is positive, you need to cut that wire after all the relays and before the existing horn. Splice a wire onto that wire and run it into the dash, or where ever you are mounting the switch. (NOTE: use wires of the proper size and proper coating for auto use, careful how and where you run all these wires) It will most likely go to the center terminal of the switch (should be labeled common) Now from that switch, one side needs a wire run back to the opposite end of the wire you just cut from the original horn, to provide power to that horn. The other terminal of the switch will go to the positive side of the new horn or its relay if you choose to install one.

So when the switch is flipped one direction you get the original horn, in the other direction you get the new horn. FYI - Depending on the switch configuration if may have an off center position, which means when the switch is in the center position you will have no horn when you press the horn button.

Hope that helps...

BTW I am not an electrical engineer and have not done this on my Cruiser. You mileage may vary. Use your own judgement. This is just a friendly suggestion of how I would do this.

[PT_Sean]

BEFORE DOING THAT- MAKE SURE THAT YOU KNOW IF THE FACTORY HORN IS POSITIVELY OR NEGATIVELY SWITCHED AND MAKE SURE THE AHOOGA IS WIRED THE SAME! Is it clear what I am trying to say here? (most imports use a ground switching technique, most domestics use a postive.. be sure first)

Wiring it up as stated above, WITHOUT CHECKING, MAY directly ground out your 12V feed once the button is pressed!! (read: fuse blown/melted wires)

Let me do up some diagrams- it may help here....