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Accessorizing your PT Cruiser Archive Threads that have had no activity for over 6 months from the Accessorizing forum - new threads and replies are not allowed here

 
 
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 3rd January 2002, 11:18 AM
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I had the alignment done after the GL were installed, at least I was charged for one (just the front, NOT a 4 wheel one).

Talked to the mech, AND to the guy at Goldline- both mentioned kits was optional, the mechanic said no probs with OEM hardware....

Dan has a point though.


  #32 (permalink)  
Old 3rd January 2002, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
PT_Sean (03 Jan, 2002 12:18 p.m.):
I had the alignment done after the GL were installed, at least I was charged for one (just the front, NOT a 4 wheel one).

Talked to the mech, AND to the guy at Goldline- both mentioned kits was optional, the mechanic said no probs with OEM hardware....

Dan has a point though.
Dan does have a point. However, if you do replace the bolts then you have (or it would be very wise) to go ahead and get the alignment. If you wait on replacing the bolts then you can wait on buying the bolts. Plus you don't want to do anything right away to begin with. The springs need a few weeks to seat properly.

My .02. worth
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 5th January 2002, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
PT_Hot_Rod (03 Jan, 2002 11:43 a.m.):
Quote:
moorecruizin (03 Jan, 2002 10:12 a.m.):
Quote:
PT_Hot_Rod (03 Jan, 2002 07:41 a.m.):
Quote:
ianchico (03 Jan, 2002 01:58 a.m.):
alright, thanks for your help guys
I too did not need to align my car. But when ever you do need your car aligned. (Whether it be with factory springs or aftermarket) You will need to have an alignment kit. Almost all new cars need them. Let me know when you are ready to go.
My Ground Force lowering spring instructions say that I must install two adjustable cam bolts in the upper strut to knuckle mounting location to allow for camber adjustment. But from what I am reading, it seems that this is not necessary and neither is the alignment. I bought the two adjustable cam bolts from NAPA. the things cost me $21 each (ouch!!). So when I install the front coils, I'll just use the OEM hardware, and if the car goes straight after install, then I'll return the bolts. Thanks for the information. I know that the two mounting bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal/install (only the nut can be turned), so maybe this is what keeps the relationship the same after install of the springs.

that is it. if you need the alignment then you will need the bolts. Otherwise, NOPE, no need for them.
I installed the front springs today. what I didn't expect to encounter was not being able to take off the strut nut without a special tool. Went up to my local parts store to get the tool and they didn't have it, but could order it and it would be there later in the day at a cost of around $50. After weighing the pros and cons, decided to go on over to Big'O' tires and just let them install the new springs on the struts for less money. didn't install the cam bolts and the car drives straight-yeah! Strange torque spec. from the service manual for the strut to knuckle bolts--never seen it before--it said to torque to 40 ft-lbs (+90 degree additional turn).

  #34 (permalink)  
Old 6th January 2002, 12:02 AM
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moorecruizin (05 Jan, 2002 11:34 p.m.):
I installed the front springs today. what I didn't expect to encounter was not being able to take off the strut nut without a special tool. Went up to my local parts store to get the tool and they didn't have it, but could order it and it would be there later in the day at a cost of around $50. After weighing the pros and cons, decided to go on over to Big'O' tires and just let them install the new springs on the struts for less money. didn't install the cam bolts and the car drives straight-yeah! Strange torque spec. from the service manual for the strut to knuckle bolts--never seen it before--it said to torque to 40 ft-lbs (+90 degree additional turn).

Should have asked us. I could not take it off either (at first) easy way to do it. while strut is bolted in. Loosen bolt about 1 turn or so. then remove strut and compress springs. you can then take off nut. It made life real easy. Glad you got them on anyways though. Do you like?
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 6th January 2002, 09:44 PM
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PT_Hot_Rod (06 Jan, 2002 01:02 a.m.):
Quote:
moorecruizin (05 Jan, 2002 11:34 p.m.):
I installed the front springs today. what I didn't expect to encounter was not being able to take off the strut nut without a special tool. Went up to my local parts store to get the tool and they didn't have it, but could order it and it would be there later in the day at a cost of around $50. After weighing the pros and cons, decided to go on over to Big'O' tires and just let them install the new springs on the struts for less money. didn't install the cam bolts and the car drives straight-yeah! Strange torque spec. from the service manual for the strut to knuckle bolts--never seen it before--it said to torque to 40 ft-lbs (+90 degree additional turn).

Should have asked us. I could not take it off either (at first) easy way to do it. while strut is bolted in. Loosen bolt about 1 turn or so. then remove strut and compress springs. you can then take off nut. It made life real easy. Glad you got them on anyways though. Do you like?
My wife hated that it lost the rake look when the lowering springs were installed; plus it did ride harsher, so we compromised. I put the OEM springs back on the rear (only took me an hour to do it this time), and I left the lowering springs on the front. There is peace and harmony in the household now. looks like I'll be putting the rear lowering springs up for sale.

BTW, when you loosened the strut nut while the strut was still in the car, did you still need to secure the shaft end while loosening the nut one turn? It seems like you would still have to have some sort of special tool to keep the shaft end stationary while the nut is loosened or tightened, whether the strut was in the car or not?


  #36 (permalink)  
Old 7th January 2002, 06:16 AM
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moorecruizin (06 Jan, 2002 10:44 p.m.):
BTW, when you loosened the strut nut while the strut was still in the car, did you still need to secure the shaft end while loosening the nut one turn? It seems like you would still have to have some sort of special tool to keep the shaft end stationary while the nut is loosened or tightened, whether the strut was in the car or not?
Yeah I just put a center punch in the hole just to keep it from spinning.
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