DOUBLE/TRIPLE check the location before you cut. this is real important. We also did not just "weld" the fitting in. I used a pipe flaring fit & "crushed the tube a bit" so the fitting would have somthing to bite into when I screwed it in. I didn't want it to pop out under pressure.
If you are gonna add a turbo later, all vaccuum lines should be clamped.
BTW, that was a JB weld type of product that you can use to repair exhaust leaks & cracked exhuast manifolds with. (high temp stuff (non JB weld brand))
Like BOB said before, this is a enabler mod. Don't expect a rocket. what it does is eliminate the last bit of restriction in air flow going into the engine. You should think about the back side also... headers, hi-perf cat, 2.5" or better exhaust.
I am no expert or certified mechanic. We have only ran "seat of pants dyno" But I like what I did for my car.
You should think twice before performing this mod, it is a lot of work & ANYTHING can go wrong!!! We know
But if you take your time, & double/triple/quadruple check your work before you reconnect the battery... all should go well.
& if it doesn't, DON"T PANIC!!!. Shut the car off & CHECK ALL VACCUUM LINES, PLUGS & BOLTS to make sure they are installed correctly & tight.
Install time for this in Driveway without power tools is around 4-6 hrs. (does not include 3 trips to parts store)
hope my editing helps a bit more.
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Cool Vanilla 04 GT 5 speed; S1, custom silencer mod, K&N drop-in, AMX1397 TTAB pipe, UCP, Ventshades, badges removed, coilovers, Mopar Stage 1 Sway bars, Freedom strut bar, PTeazer retro grill, bumperette, cowl induction hood, rollpan & other assorted painted body parts .
Member of www.mnptcruiserclub.org
MAC (Minnesota Autosports Club) Novice AutoX Day